Seam structure for collars and cuffs



June 3,

' 1,496,672 E. H. A. IHABBERT SEAM STRUCTURE FOR GOLLARS AND CUFFS Filed April 13, 1921 Patented June 3, 192a.

UNETED ST ENNO MNRY AUGUST HABBRT, 0F TROY, NEW YORK.

SEEM STRUCTURE FOR CDLWS AND CUFFS.

Application filed April 18, 1921. Serial No. 460,901. a

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ENNo HENRY AUGUST HABBERT, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Seam Structures for Collars and Cuffs, of

which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a process, more particularly adapted for use in the construction of collars and cuffs and directed to securing the raw edge of one or more plies of material by turning the edge any desired depth and so stitching the turned edge as to completely or substantially cover the raw edge, and at the same time forming a headlike projection on the surface of the collar or cuff thru the tension of the stitches coverin the raw edge.

lihis invention is also directed to the article produced by the improved method including the raw edge finishing means and the bead produced thereby.

The former method of disposing of the raw edges of the various plies of the material making-up the collar and cuff is satisfactory in its results but comparatively expensive to carry out, while the present method as described in this application is equally satisfactory in its results and materially less expensive to carry out. A distinct advantage of. and a material part of the method herein described is directly incident to the tension of the raw edge covering threads, as by an appropriate tension the material on the face of the collar or cuff may be given a bead effect, heretofore secured by the insertion of a cord. The bead effect produced by this invention may be varied as desired, merely by a variation in tension of the thread referred to, and hence the process, generally stated, involves the use of stitches produced in a well known manner for the laying in and covering of the raw edge of a folded edge fabric in one or more plies, with an additional and desirable eifect produced solely by the tension of such laying inv and covering stitches.

The process can be readily understood from the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a broken plan of a collar edge illustrating the invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan of the face or reverse side of the same showing the cord effect.

Fig. 3 is a materially enlarged transverse section through the edge, to illustrate particularly the method of laying in the raw edge and simultaneously producing the cord effect.

The invention is illustrated, and as hereinafter specifically described, is applied more particularly to a collar, though it is to be specifically understood that no limitation of the application of the process is to be indicated thereby, as many other articles of manufacture are adapted for the use of .the process with equal commercial results.

As shown, the collar edge 1, including one or several lies, is turned at 2 and the raw edge 3 of t e several plies laida ainst one surface ofthe collar proper. Thise ge is then secured by the improved process which consists in assing parallel rows ofstitching l and 5 t ru the material, one of such rows passing thruthe collar and turned edge adjacent to but inwardly of the raw edge 3. The other row of stitching 5 passes thru the material adjacent to but beyond and free of the raw edge 3. These rows of stitchin 4 and 5 are united by a single under thread 6, which under thread, as a result of the disposition of the rows of stitching 4 and 5, directly overlies and substantially covers the raw ed e 3.

If it is esired, and as contemplated, as an essential step in the process, a head or simulated cord formation may be given the face side of the fabric, as is usually provided in collars, cuffs and like articles. With the present process, this head or simulated cord formation is secured by the tension of the under thread stitching 6 as in accordance with the tension of such stitching 6, the material on the face side of the article between the rows of stitching 4 and 5 may be caused to protrude beyond the surface in a rounded bead-like formation. as at 7. The extent, that is, the projective dimension of this bead-like formation is readily regulated, within limits, by the degree of tension of such under thread stitching 6, as will be perfectly obvious.

It will of course be understood that the various rows of stitching 4, 5, and 6, are

readily roduced with a multiple needle sewing mac ine employing one under thread.

Characteristically, the improved rocess consists essentially in a method of stitching whereby the raw edge of the one or several plies at the turned edge of an article may be laid in, effectively secured, and practically covered by certain of the stitches; the process also including as an important detail, the provision of a bead or cord effect on the face of the article by the tension of the thread forming the stitches which are adapted to cover the raw edge.

An advantage of this particular cord effeet when used is that it is formed wholly from the material itself and hence there is practically no liability of crinkling, nor is there any obstacle to the turn of a short rounded corner though both of these disadvantages are well known objections to the use of the usual cord for producing this effect.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the manufacture of collars and cuffs, that the present invention, while producing an article fully as perfect in service and appearance as the articles produced under previous methods, is materially less expensive than such previous methods, and hence a material commercial advantag The present invention contemplates the article produced by the method herein described, and such article will be claimed as a part of the invention.

Claims:

1. The herein described method of securin the raw edge of a folded-edge fabric artic e, consisting in applying a plurality of rows of stitching to the fabric inwardly of and substantially parallel with the folded edge, one at least of which rows of stitching does not pass thru the raw edge, and uniting said rows of stitching on the folded ed e side of the fabric only by transverse t reads which overlie and substantially cover the raw edge.

2. The herein described method of securing the raw edge of a fGlded-edge fabric article, consisting in applying a roW of stitching thru the fabric and folded edge, a second row of stitchin thru the fabric inwardly of and free 0 the raw edge,'and uniting said rows of stitching by transverse threads on the folded edge side of. the fabric only, whereby said transverse threads overlie and confine the iew edge of. the folded edge portion.

3. The herein described method of securin the raw edge of a folded-edge fabric artic e, consisting in applying a row of stitching thru the fabric and folded edge, a second row of stitching thru the fabric inwardly of and free of the raw edge, and uniting said rows of stitching by transverse threads on the folded edge side of the fabric only, said transverse threads being tensioned to form a bead efiect in the fabric between said rows of stitching.

4:. The herein described method of securin the raw edge of a folded-edge fabric artic e, consisting in applying a row of stitching thru the fabric and folded edge, a

naeae'ra second row of stitching thru the fabric inwardly of and free of the raw edge and uniting said rows of stitching by transverse threads on the folded edge side of the fabric only, said transverse threads being tensioned to form a bead effect in the fabric between and transversely co-extensive with said rows of stitching, the raw edge of the folded edge being confined in the hollow of said bead by the transverse threads.

5. The herein described method of securing the raw edge of a folded-edge fabric article, consisting in simultaneously applying two spaced rows of stitching thru the fabric and folded edge lengthwise said edge, one of said rows of stitching passing thru the fabric and folded edge, and the second of said rows of stitching passing thru the fabric inwardly of and free of the raw edge of such folded edge, and uniting said rows of stitching on the folded edge side of the fabric only by cross threads, the said cross threads overlying the raw edge portion only of the folded edge and providing a substantially complete covering for such raw edge, the absence of thread formation between said rows of stitching on the side of the article opposite the raw edge permitting a tensioning of the cross threads to form a bead outwardly of the plain side of the article between said rows of stitching.

6. The herein described method in a collar or cuff of providing means for securing the raw edge of a folded edge of such article and. presenting at the same time a substantially smooth surface on the folded edge side of the article, consisting in applying a row of stitches through the folded edge and through 1 the opposite surface of the article, a second row of stitches through the fabric inwardly of and wholly free from the folded edge and uniting the stitches of each of said rows by transverse threads which overlie and confine the folded edge throughout the full width between saidfirst mentioned rows of stitching, the transverse threads binding the raw edge of the folded edge onto the article and substantially covering said raw edge to present a substantially smooth surface on the folded edge side of the article.

7. The herein described method of securing two or more plies of a collar or and to present a substantially smooth surface at the juncture, consisting. in folding the similar edges of the plies loosely onto one side of the article, securing said folded edge by a row of stitching extending through the article and through said folded edge, applying a second row of stitching substantially parallel to the first and passing through the article wholly free of the folded edge, and uniting the stitches of said rows of stitching by transverse thrcads which completely overlie the folded edge throughout a material portion of its width and completely overlie and substlantially cover the raw edge of said folded e e.

The herein described method of securing two or more plies of a collar or cufi to present a substantially smooth surface at the juncture, consisting in folding the similar edges of the plies loosely onto one side of the article, securing said folded edge by a row of stitching extending through the article and through said folded edge, applying a second row of stitching substantially parallel to the first and passin through the article wholly free of the folded edge, and uniting the stitches of said rows of stitching by transverse threads which completely overlie the folded edge throughout a material portion of its width and completely overlie and substantially cover the raw edge of said folded edge, said trans-- verse threads bein so tensioned as to bind the raw edge of t e folded edge into contact with the adjacent surface of the fabric to avoid obstruction of such raw edge of an otherwise substantially smooth surface.

9. A collar or cufi having the edge portions of superimposed plies folded over on one surface to produce a finished edge of the article, means for securing said folded edge to the surface over which it lies to provide a substantially smooth juncture over said folded edge and surface, said means comprising rows of stitching passin through the plies with one of said rows 0 stitching passing through said folded edge and the other of said rows of stitching being arranged beyond said folded edge, and cross threads uniting the stitching of said rows and overlying and confining said folded edge, whereby to render that surface of the article receiving the folded edge substantially smooth and unbroken.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

7 ENNO HENRY AUGUST HABBERT. 

